We were going to explore a natural Australian wonder located in the World Heritage-listed Purnululu National Park.The extraordinary natural phenomena known as the “Bungle Bungle Range” was only known to local indigenous people until it was brought to the attention of the rest of the world when discovered by a documentary team in 1983.
The unique striped beehive shaped mounds of the Bungles stretch over 450 km2. The national park is roughly 300 kilometres south of Kununurra in the East Kimberly Region of Western Australia, the middle of nowhere!
We travelled 250 km on sealed roads before turning off into Purnululu National Park. We had read that the 53 km Spring Creek track was rough, rugged and difficult, and would take roughly 2 hours to drive. Many visitors opt to take a tour or flight over the ranges due to it’s reputation.
Only high clearance 4 wheel drive vehicles should enter the park. We were travelling in a rented LandCruiser and felt excited and confident. Within minutes of travelling down the sandy track we began to understand why it had such a bad reputation!
The corrugations were utterly horrendous! Like nothing we had experienced. The noise inside the vehicle was deafening. Tins and utensils were smashing violently together whilst our camping equipment was being thrown around like a bunch of rag dolls.
We were so concerned of possible damage to the vehicle that we decided to pull over. It was at this point that reality kicked in. We were not sure if we were going to be able to make it. We had to consider the remoteness of the national park and the cost of possible damage to our hire vehicle.
After a break and a chat we made the decision to push on and see whether the track improved. We also decided to change our strategy and drive a little faster. This made a huge difference. After about 30 minutes the corrugations calmed down. The track was challenging but great fun.
We smashed through creeks and bounced over the corrugations revelling in the adventure. Wallabies were grazing across the ancient landscape whilst wedge tailed eagles glided in the ocean of blue sky. The rugged mountainous landscape was nothing short of spectacular.
After a couple of hours the superlative natural phenomena appeared before our eyes. It was a real “WOW” moment. The unique and astounding mounds surrounded us. We sat mesmerised by the incredible natural beauty of the fascinating formations.
We arrived at the campsite late in the day, pitched the tent, had a feed, then headed out to the Bungles for sunset. We sat on the roof of the LandCruiser with a glass of red as the sun descended. The sky was illuminated with an incredibly intense orange, it was utterly breathtaking.
A blanket of stars appeared in the night sky and the place came alive with an abundance of wildlife including wallies, kangaroos and bandicoots. It was an interesting drive back to camp!!
We woke early in the morning to catch a spectacular sunrise before spending the day exploring the Bungles. We set off on Piccaninny Creek walk, which takes you into the heart of the unique orange and brown striped rock formations of the Bungles.
The walk follows the course of a dried sandy creek bed, which weaves along for several kilometres and takes you to a number of attractions. The Window is a natural window that has eroded through one of the domes. It’s just off the track and well worth the short detour. Whipsnake Gorge is a narrow gorge which ends with a rock pool.
Not far from the start of the Piccaninny Creek walk, is the Sunset Lookout. Here you can experience panoramic views of the Bungles and a perfect spot for photographs.
Mini-Palms Gorge was a stunning walk through a narrow chasm filled with Livistonia palms. The gorge ends at a fantastic lookout which gives you an exceptional view of the sheer vertical walls.
The walk to Echnida Chasm starts in a wide stoney creek bed, which gets narrower and narrower as you continue. The mid-point of the walk features incredible sheer walls that are separated by a narrow gap. Inside the Chasm the walk takes you through dramatic rock features.
Cathedral Gorge is one of the most famous attractions. The gorge ends in a massive natural amphitheater, the acoustics were fabulous. We sat on one of the many rock ledges under the overhanging rock walls admiring the natural beauty. We were fortunate to have the place all to ourselves!
The Bungles were a special and memorable experience and definitely well worth the journey. Spring Creek track just added to the adventure.
This destination is not for the faint hearted and is very remote. The only facility at the camp was a typical outback dunny, home to a very large spider and a bright green frog!!
If you are not into bush camping you can stay at Bungle Bungle Caravan Park which is just outside the entrance to Purnululu National Park. Here there is a variety of accommodation from safari tents to powered and non-powered sites. 4 wheel drive bus tours leave direct from the Caravan Park most days. Caravan and Camper Trailer storage is also available. You can book flights at the entrance to the park.
The national park is closed in the wet season, but can be viewed from the air. Dry season is the best time to visit with the park opening in April and closing in October. A good time to visit is just after wet season in April/May. Due to changes in global weather patterns the park has been closed in dry season due to rain, so always check the park conditions before departing on your journey.
Safe travels my friends!!
