Exploring the Untouched Beauty of Kakadu

This timeless place is steeped in history, untouched, and drenched in natural beauty.  From thriving wetlands, dramatic waterfalls, ancient sandstone escarpments to invigorating waterholes. This unique paradise is just waiting to be explored.

We spent the first couple of days organising supplies, hiring a LandCruiser and discovering Darwin.  With it’s laid back vibe, this cosmopolitan city, has a vibrant modern waterfront where we enjoyed al fresco dining on just-caught-seafood and sensational sunsets.  The famous “Cage of Death” at Crocosaurus Cove, will bring you face to face with some of the largest crocodiles in captivity, but we decided we would get our croc fix in the wild!

We set off on the 250 km journey from Darwin to Kakadu whilst enjoyed the sights of wild brumby, rogue water buffalo and salt water crocodiles.

Our Kakadu experience commenced in Jabiru, the major town in this region. From here we progressively moved around the national park in a clockwise direction. There is only one sealed road so you go one way or the other.

Ubirr Rock Lookout

We travelled 39 km through smouldering bush fires from Jabiru to Ubirr. The Ubirr art site walk was an easy well maintained 1km track which contained a gallery of some of the oldest Aboriginal Rock Art in Australia. The best art work we have seen to date.

We embarked on the moderately steep rocky climb to Ubirr Rock Lookout. At the Lookout we were met with an utterly breathtaking view, a mass of untouched vivid green wilderness known as the Nardab floodplains. The scenery was just spectacular.

Kakadu has a unique feeling, something magical and spiritual.

From Ubirr we took a short drive to the Cahill Crossing. We headed to the elevated viewing platform to do some crocodile spotting and were not disappointed. Crocs, almost camouflaged, basked on the muddy riverbank, whilst others floated inconspicuously up and down the river. The famous crossing takes you through the East Alligator River into the vast wilderness of Arnhem Land.

Twin Falls

The four wheel drive only track was gnarly and challenging. From brain rattling corrugations, spine numbing stoney sections to slippery sand banks. The creek crossing was deep, far deeper than we anticipated (glad we had a snorkel on the vehicle), there were visible salt water crocs floating close by, hoping for a feed maybe?

From the car park we were greeted by a park ranger who directed us to a river boat. The boat took us down the most sublime river which was teaming with fish, it’s beauty enhanced by the lush vegetation that followed it’s path. We continued through the most spectacular red ochre gorge to arrive at the drop off point. The ranger then pointed to a radio that was sat on a rock, and said, “radio when you’re ready for a pick up” then departed (shock!). We had the place all to ourselves!!

We continued the epic journey by foot; clambering over boulders, shuffling along narrow ledges then enjoying the ease of a boardwalk. Then there she was “Twin Falls” in all her glory. An ancient towering ochre escarpment, with sparkling waters glistening in the sunlight lightly cascading into an azure water pool, fringed by impeccably white sand. The peace, the tranquility, the beauty …… absolutely breathtaking! We sat mesmerised then took a dip in the refreshing pristine water pool. We didn’t want to leave, it was nothing short of paradise!

Gunlom Falls

We left the tarmac and headed down the 30 km track to Gunlom Falls. The track was fun although quite heavily corrugated in parts. We took the short but steep climb to the top of the falls where there are a series of picturesque water pools. The water pools run into one another then eventually cascade down over the cliff to form the waterfall.

Water dragons sat peacefully on the rocks enjoying the heat of the mid day sun, whilst the water fall echoed in the background. We couldn’t wait to immerse ourselves in the invigorating water.  The view from the edge of the top water pool allows sensational panoramic views of the southern hills and ridges, it was a real WOW moment. The most spectacular swimming pool we have ever visited.

We spent a few hours enjoying a packed lunch and chatting with other travellers. We then visited the plunge pool at the base of the waterfall. We couldn’t swim here due to the threat of salt water crocs but enjoyed a beautiful bush walk.

Yellow Water Billabong

Yellow Water Billabong is the region’s thriving wetlands and the heart of Kakadu. We were blown away by abundance of local wildlife, it was utterly incredible; sea eagles, storks, brolgas, great eastern egrets, jabiru and of course salt water crocodiles, to name but a few. The birdlife here is prolific, without doubt a twitchers paradise.

Maguk Gorge and Falls

We trekked 1 km from the car park through thick lush vegetation which links to a pristine creek. The track crosses back and forth across the creek. In a few places the creek widens into small pools where we enjoyed a quick dip! We clambered over large boulders for a majority of the way. The scenery was stunning, a tropical oasis with an abundance of birdlife. We followed the crystal waters of the creek which lead directly to the falls.

The quaint waterfall cascaded elegantly into the most inviting plunge pool. The pure emerald green water was crystal clear, the colour amplified by lush tropical greenery at the bottom end of the pool. Once again we were in paradise. We spent the afternoon swimming, massaging our backs under the waterfall then sunbathing on the surrounding rocks.

We visited many other picturesque billabongs, thriving wetlands and sensational lookouts on our visit. We hired a 4 wheel drive Toyota LandCruiser to ensure we could reach some of the most treasured spots e.g. Twin Falls, and would recommend this.

The park is extremely remote and not for the faint hearted. You need to ensure that you are self sufficient. We met a group of young backpackers who had run out of fuel and were over 100 km away from the nearest petrol station. They were under the assumption that if they drove to Twin Falls there would be a petrol station and hostel and were shocked to find only a bush camp.

Plan your journey well and allow time to trek to waterfalls, waterholes and lookouts. When trekking ensure you are carrying enough food and water and are wearing the appropriate clothing (a hat and walking boots are a must).

By the end of the journey I had to discard my walking boots as they took such a battering from clambering over the rough terrain.

Jabiru offers hotel accommodation including a bit of luxury at the Mercure Kakadu Crocodile Hotel. We camped at Kakadu Lodge and Caravan Park which was fantastic (bar, restaurant and pool).  Outside of Jabiru there are only bush camps.   If you don’t fancy driving you can book onto a 4 wheel drive bus tour. There are various holiday packages available to suit all visitors.

Kakadu has two seasons. The dry season which runs from April to October. This is the most popular time to visit. It’s wise to book your accommodation in advance, as hotels and campsites get busy at this time of year.  Be aware that some waterfalls e.g. Jim Jim  Falls may be dry.

The wet season is from November to March. It brings vivid green landscapes, spectacular flooding, electrifying storms and fewer visitors. Flooding closes a number of attractions, but popular areas such as Nourlangie and Yellow Water are open all year round.  You can also book scenic flights to see the thundering waterfalls in full flow if ground access is closed due to flooding.

Kakadu really is a special place and definitely left a print on our hearts. We can’t wait to go back!

Safe travels my friends!!